The minute one project ends, I’m on the hunt for the next. And many times, I don’t even look at my queue (40+ items) or library of patterns (more than 6000).
I have projects on the needles, but I’m anxious to grind down my stash with a new project. And with so many free patterns—some with timeless good looks to them, it feels like the time to do a stash reduction is now. Especially if I’m going to make my goal of 20 projects completed this year.
One resolution (again) is to shop from my stash. Of course, this doesn’t take into consideration I cannot seem to leave a wool shop or event without coming home with truckloads… And did I mention I bought loads on December 31st? 🙂
Rounding out the top of the free patterns on Ravelry I’m considering, given my stash, these are the top candidates:
A sweater called Sloper, by Karen Templer. Instead of three strands of worsted wool, I’d use two strands of Aran weight Rowan Bamboo Tape in Honey from my stash. Not only will it breathe better than wool, it won’t be scratchy on the soft skin of the neck.
A hat called Twist and Slouch, from local (Anacortes, WA) knit designer Kali Berg. It looks easy and I love the big brim, which for my small head is a necessity. I think Knit Picks Galerie in Renaissance (jewel tones) would make a fine, colorful hat. I bought it for socks, but it’s must too thick for that.
A simple throw, Garter Squish, by Stephen West to chew through my copious stash of worsted weight yarns. I could make one in synthetic and one in wool and still have dozens of yarn left over.
An extra wide version of this Bias Scarf, by Shelby Dyas to replace a rectangle wrap I wore ceaselessly until I lost it in Copenhagen on a business trip.
It’s generally gray in the Pacific Northwest in the winter. Often the outdoors can inspire your color scheme to match.
This winter has seemed particularly dark due to a heavy flu and cold season in the region. What better to ward off illness than to knit and wear warm hats!
I started this hat without a pattern—I just wanted a black and gray striped hat. At first I thought of doing a jogless horizontal stripe, a pattern I picked up at KnitFit from designer Lisa Ellis. Instead of starting off that way, I decided I wanted a larger ribbed edge and liked the idea of doing it in two colors. But when I’d finished the ribbing, I thought, ‘Why not keep on going?’
I’m sharing the recipe right away, since I usually put it off and don’t do it. I’m trying to be a “finisher” this year, even in my pattern writing.
Following other DK patterns, I started by casting on 80, then 88, but both seemed small even for my small-sized head. I’m guessing the extra bulk comes from holding two yarns together. In the end I landed on 100 for a medium size adult hat. For a bigger or smaller size, I suggest adding or removing eight stitches (pattern can be any multiple of four).
The goal was to create a warmer hat and this design achieves it because the carried yarn creates a textured heat holding layer inside.
This pattern should work well for any DK yarn—or for whatever meets the stated gauge. If you use wool, as I did (Patons North America Classic Wool DK Superwash), I recommend superwash and high contrast colors, with the lighter/brighter shade for the knit stitches and the darker/dimmer color for the purls.
Glossary:
MC – Main color
AC – alternate color
PM – place marker
SM – slip marker
DK – double knit weight yarn
K2P2 – Knit 2, purl 2
P2K2 – Purl 2 knit 2
P2Tog – Purl two together
K2Tog – Knit two together
CO – cast on
Gauge: 21 stitches and 14 rows over 4 inches
Needles: Size 5 circulars (16”), size 5, 4 and 3 double points for crown; medium (G) crochet hook (optional)
Yarn: 150 yards MC yarn; 100 yards AC yarn in DK weight
Recipe:
CO 100 sts with MC (darker) yarn and PM.
Row 1: With MC only P2K2 the first round being careful not to twist
**NOTE**: Row 1 is different from all the other rows switching purls for knits and knits for purls in order to prevent the purl bumps from the MC/AC color showing on the outside of the hat. But you need to do a rib–even on the all MC row to prevent the hat brim from curling.
Rows 2 through 44 (or until piece measures 6.5 inches): holding MC yarn in back, K2 with AC, place AC yarn in back and P2 with MC. Repeat these K2P2 in alternating colors until you reach the marker and SM.
Row 45: K2, P2, K2 in color. P2Tog. Repeat until you reach the marker and SM
Switch to size 5 double point needles on next round.
Rows 46-47: follow color pattern, Knitting the AC knits and purling the MCs purls.
Row 48: in color pattern, K2, P2Tog twice, K2P1. Repeat until you reach the marker and SM
Rows 49 and 50: K2P1 in color pattern
Row 51: K2tog P2, K2P1 twice in color pattern. Repeat until you reach the end and SM
Row 52 and 53: follow color pattern
Row 54: K1P1, K2Tog, P1, K2tog, P1. Repeat until you reach the end and SM
Rows 55 and 56: K1P1 in color pattern (50 stitches)
Switch to size 4 double point needles on next round.
Row 57: K1, P1, P2tog (with MC). Repeat until to end.
Row 58: K1P2 to end
Row 59: K1P2Tog to end
Switch to size 3 double point needles on next round.
Row 60: K1P1 to end
Cut yarn with approx. 18” of each color remaining.
Run the MC yarn through all of the stitches and pull tight and secure. Feed through the center of the hat crown (to the outside).
Finishing: using a medium crochet create a 10-stitch chain and pull the yarn through to secure. Clip 5 four-inch pieces of each color pulling them through the last stitch in the chain. Wrap an additional main color around these pieces to create a tassel and trim to desired length. Weave in ends.
Orcas Island Knitting 