Warm Waffle Mitts

Madelinetosh DK in Cathedral
Madelinetosh DK in Cathedral

Download PDF: Warm Waffle Mitt Pattern

With the funds from some recent vintage yarn sales on Ravelry, I recently purchased 2 beautiful hanks of Madelinetosh DK in Cathedral. What prompted it (besides a closeout sale on that color) was lovely Violet Waffles hat pattern. It looked like it would be perfect for a good winter/spring all-purpose hat.

Violet Waffle Hat
Violet Waffle Hat

When I’d finished and still had a full hank and then some yarn leftover, I thought it would be nice to have a matching pair of fingerless mitts. This inspiration came along after a couple chilly mornings waiting for the bus whilst trying to check for its approach on my cell phone. Mitts are the perfect combo of finger to phone access and woolly goodness.

I searched several times for the features I needed. Nothing out of the ordinary, I thought; just a pattern with the following characteristics:

  • A longish mitt that would go up the arm for extra warmth;
  • Something in a waffle pattern or one that could be converted; and
  • Works well with a DK weight yarn

Easy! Um. No.

Mitts with the Hat
Mitts with the Hat

I could find one or two of these characteristics, but struck out on finding all of them, so like any budding designer, I made my own. The closest was Lettice Weasel’s Slim Fit Stripe Mitt pattern for length and yarn weight, but it didn’t work for the waffle pattern. So I started there and made changes, which led to several more changes to compensate for the first changes, and so on. Rather than a slim fit, I really wanted something a bit more comfortable.

So here it my own pattern for the Warm Waffle Mitts. So good you can easily eat in them.


The gauge swatch
The gauge swatch
  • ½ hank of Madelinetosh DK (~110 yards)
  • 3 stitch markers in contrasting colors (one of one color—two of another)
  • 4 double point (DP) needles in US sizes
  • 4 and 6 or whatever needle enables correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 stitches, 32 rows = 4” square

K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one stitch by knitting or purling into the stitch below
DP(s)/ DPN(s) – double point(s), double point needles
rnd(s) – round(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)


Wrist to Thumb
Onto smaller DP needle, cast on 40 stitches. Divide them across three needles. Place a (uniquely colored) marker to indicate rows.
Rows 1-22: work stitches in the round in a K2 P2 rib
Rows 23-24: Change to larger needles and K all stitches
Rows 25-26: work in K2 P2 rib.
Repeat rows 23-26 until you have 30 rows of the waffle pattern (ends on second row of all knitted stitches)

Thumb Gusset
Row 53: K2 make a stitch by purling into the row below and place a marker, P2 and then work in K2 P2 until you are two stitches before the original start/end marker. Place another marker (same color as the first in this row, but different than the original color). Make a stitch by purling into the row below and purl the remaining two stitches. Stitch count = 42, 6 stitches between the two new markers.
Row 54: K2 P2 until the last 3 stitches. Purl the last 3 stitches.
Row 55: K all stitches
Row 56: K3 M1 by knitting into the row below. Move marker and K to marker. Slip marker. M1 by knitting into the row below and K to end. Stitch count == 44, 8 stitches between new markers.
Rows 57-58: K2, P4 work the rest of the row in K2 P2 waffle pattern until you reach the marker. P4.
Row 59: K4, M1 by knitting into the row below, slip marker, K to next marker, K2, M1, K2. Stitch count = 46, 10 stitches between the outside markers.
Row 60: K all stitches
Row 61: K2, P2, K1, slip marker and P2 K2 until you reach the next marker. P2 K1 P2.
Row 62: K2, P2, M1 by knitting into the row below, K1 and follow pattern until you reach the marker. P2 M1 by knitting into the row below, K1, P2. Stitch count = 48, 12 stitches between the markers.
Row 63: K to last marker and transfer all stitches between the markers to a holder—removing all markers.
Row 64: knit the remaining 36 stitches. Placing a marker to keep track of rounds.

Continue to work in the round following the waffle pattern for 14 rounds (should have just completed 2 rounds of K only rounds.
Change to smaller needles and knit in K2 P2 rib for 8 more rounds and cast off in K2 P2 pattern.

Arrange 12 stitches on three DPNs. Start from the last knitted stitch, place marker and pick up two stitches from the hand side of the thumb gusset. K to marker.
Next 2 rows: P4 K2 P2 K2 P2 K2 (4 purls should be on stitches that are between the thumb and hand).
Next 2 rows: K all stitches.
Repeat 4 rows 1 more time.
Cast off (on second knit row)

Quickie Capelet

Several views of the Quickie Capelet
Several views of the Quickie Capelet

How this pattern came together was trial and error. And while the pattern creation took several days, the actual knitting was 3 hours—total. A nice afternoon project with great results. Also of benefit is that I not only have a warm wear around the shoulders garment, I used up two yarns had had which were too much for a scarf/hat and not enough for a sweater.

I spent one whole day knitting swatches and seeing how the two yarns worked together. The main color is a single hand spun natural hank of worsted wool I picked up in Holbrook Arizona, just south of the Navaho Indian reservation. The other was three balls of wool ribbon yarn from my grandmother’s stash.

My inspiration for this garment was after I saw an Eileen Fisher capelet on a fashionista at work. I asked to inspect it more closely and it is from this that I chose the method of reducing—the creation of a seam in the back. Eileen’s was with a bulky fuzzy black yarn in garter stitch (so every other row knit/purl in the round) and had no border. I wanted both more and less texture. Less fuzz to show the yarns. Ribbing create visual appeal.


Side view of the capelet
Side view of the capelet

Pattern shown in photograph is made with three yarns held together:

  • Two hanks (~250-320 yards each) of worsted weight wool
  • Three skeins of ribbon yarn (I used a wool ribbon of unknown origin) of approximately DK weight

Substitute the same length of single strand of super bulky or two strands of bulky held together or whatever gives you the appropriate gauge.


5 stitches and 10 rows in a 4” x 4” square using whatever needle gives you this gauge (I used US -15).


Cast on 72 stitches and place stitch marker. Then continued in the round being careful not to twist.

Rows 1-4: K2P2 ribbing.

Row 5: Knit to marker

Rows 6-14: At marker K2tog, knit to end of row

63 Stitches remain

Rows 14-16: Knit even (do not reduce)

Rows 17: At marker K2tog and switch to K2 P2 ribbing

62 Stitches remain

Rows 18-30: Knit evening (do not reduce) in K2 P2 ribbing

Bind off in K2 P2 ribbing pattern

What I would do differently…

  1. I would hide the reductions by doing something farther out from the marker and evenly on each side. While there is a “cool” triangle on the back of the garment, I think a more subtle look would be better.

    K2tog at the marker creates a "tucked" look
    K2tog at the marker creates a “tucked” look
  2. I would even up the top and bottom rib for symmetry. I wanted more ribbing at the top to keep it up higher on my shoulders, but I think it would look better if I’d made them the same size.

What I would do the same…

  1. The yarns speak for themselves. I’d do less ribbing to show off the variegation in the wool ribbon yarn against the natural variations in the hand spun wool.
  2. Keep it this simple. What really makes the capelet visually elegant is the simplicity.