pattern

A Survey-Based Key for Holding Two Strands Together

~ Kristin Tolle ~ 6 Comments

Holding two strands of yarn together can result in beautiful projects. Lately I’ve been drawing inspiration from the KnitPicks book, Better Together: Marled Knits Collection (there’s one for crochet too!).

Photo © KnitPicks

In a previous post, I created a table based on collating data three yarn manufacturer’s websites. I found it helpful, but I also found it didn’t map to patterns I was using (based on pattern gauge). It also lacked needle sizing which has a huge impact on what yarn weight you end up with when it’s held double.

So, I put my scientific skills to work and did a Ravelry pattern survey and created a table that includes needle sizing and more designer detail. The methodology can be found at the end of the blog. This was much tougher than collating three sites, I had to look at every pattern doubled in every weight to collect needle sizes and confirm gauge accuracy.

As a teaser, I’m now working on a survey for three yarns held together as well as holding differing weights of yarns together (in twos and threes). Compiling this data is no small task, so please be patient!

First, a map of yarn weights collated from various knitting websites (which don’t necessarily correspond to patterns either!). This is how patterns were “mapped” to yarn weights.

GuideCommon namesSts over 4” or 10cm
Thread*Thread44+ stitches
Cobweb*Cobweb40+ stitches

Lace		Lace, light fingering33-40 stitches

Super fine		Fingering, sock, baby27-32 stitches

Fine		Sport, baby, light DK23-26 stitches

Light		DK, light worsted21-24 stitches‡

Medium		Worsted, Afghan, Aran16-20 stitches

Bulky		Bulky, chunky, craft, rug12-15 stitches

Super bulky		Super bulky, super chunky, roving7-11 stitches

Jumbo		Jumbo, roving6 stitches or less

* There is a lot of variation in cobweb weight. I believe this is because it isn’t considered a “standard weight, which is why there’s no “yarn skein” provided by knitting and crochet sites. The thread weight was more consistent, but there are few patterns for it.

‡ Overlap of number of stitches with other yarn weights is intentional and consistent with the original sources.

Table for Yarns Held Double

The most likely weight is shown in bold.

Single WeightDoubled WeightNeedle Sizes Range# Patterns
ThreadCobweb1-43
ThreadLace5-73
ThreadLight fingering8-105
CobwebLace2.5-818
CobwebLight fingering5-107
CobwebFingering7-105
LaceLight fingering2.5-34
LaceFingering3-510
LaceSport5-812
LaceDK7-94
Light fingeringFingering2.5-54
Light fingeringSport4-911
Light fingeringDK6-815
FingeringSport3-79
FingeringDK6-916
FingeringWorsted8-105
SportDK3-75
SportWorsted7-1010
SportAran8-10.513
SportBulky10-152
DK/Lt. WorstedWorsted3-57
DK/Lt. WorstedAran6-1017
DK/Lt. WorstedBulky10-155
DK/Lt. WorstedSuper Bulky191
WorstedAran6-812
WorstedBulky8-1115
WorstedSuper Bulky13-193
AranBulky8-10.511
AranSuper Bulky11-1713
AranJumbo19,35,506
BulkySuper Bulky11-1718
BulkyJumbo19,35,5012
Super BulkyJumbo13-19, 35, 5030

Methodology:

  • Ravelry filters were used to narrow the patterns to each yarn weight held double. Since they do not allow you to say which direction, a search for “sport” + “held double” gives you both: “sport + sport = Aran” and “fingering + fingering = sport”. I would switch from the beginning to the end pages to avoid double counting patterns.
  • 30 patterns for each weight were collated, except for thread (there were only 11 on Ravelry).
  • Some patterns claimed doubled yarn weights which do not match the listed gauge (e.g. Jumbo listed as 8 stitches over 4” maps rather to Super Bulky). For consistency, I only used patterns that provided gauge for the knitted item and mapped that to the first table.
  • Smooth (and consistently sized fuzzy) yarns only. Bouclé and other variable weight yarns were excluded.
  • Stockinette where possible for consistency—though in large weights (Super Bulky and Jumbo), garter was included to get a sufficient survey count of 30 patterns.
  • Needle weights were ranges selected from the patterns surveyed. Needle sizes that were huge on small yarns were largely excluded due to “bonkers” (a technical term) variability inconsistent from other patterns.
  • Since DK overlaps with Sport, I used the designer’s choice, rather than pattern gauge.

A Hat for Gray Days

~ Kristin Tolle ~ Leave a comment
  • Gray and black Ribbed hat

It’s generally gray in the Pacific Northwest in the winter. Often the outdoors can inspire your color scheme to match.

This winter has seemed particularly dark due to a heavy flu and cold season in the region. What better to ward off illness than to knit and wear warm hats!

I started this hat without a pattern—I just wanted a black and gray striped hat. At first I thought of doing a jogless horizontal stripe, a pattern I picked up at KnitFit from designer Lisa Ellis. Instead of starting off that way, I decided I wanted a larger ribbed edge and liked the idea of doing it in two colors. But when I’d finished the ribbing, I thought, ‘Why not keep on going?’

I’m sharing the recipe right away, since I usually put it off and don’t do it. I’m trying to be a “finisher” this year, even in my pattern writing.

Following other DK patterns, I started by casting on 80, then 88, but both seemed small even for my small-sized head. I’m guessing the extra bulk comes from holding two yarns together. In the end I landed on 100 for a medium size adult hat. For a bigger or smaller size, I suggest adding or removing eight stitches (pattern can be any multiple of four).

The goal was to create a warmer hat and this design achieves it because the carried yarn creates a textured heat holding layer inside.

  • Tassel
  • Inside yarn carry
  • Warm head

Contrasting Colored Ribbed Hat

Gray Day Hat PatternDownload

This pattern should work well for any DK yarn—or for whatever meets the stated gauge. If you use wool, as I did (Patons North America Classic Wool DK Superwash), I recommend superwash and high contrast colors, with the lighter/brighter shade for the knit stitches and the darker/dimmer color for the purls.

Glossary:

  • MC – Main color
  • AC – alternate color
  • PM – place marker
  • SM – slip marker
  • DK – double knit weight yarn
  • K2P2 – Knit 2, purl 2
  • P2K2 – Purl 2 knit 2
  • P2Tog – Purl two together
  • K2Tog – Knit two together
  • CO – cast on

Gauge: 21 stitches and 14 rows over 4 inches

Needles: Size 5 circulars (16”), size 5, 4 and 3 double points for crown; medium (G) crochet hook (optional)

Yarn: 150 yards MC yarn; 100 yards AC yarn in DK weight

Recipe:

CO 100 sts with MC (darker) yarn and PM.

Row 1: With MC only P2K2 the first round being careful not to twist

**NOTE**: Row 1 is different from all the other rows switching purls for knits and knits for purls in order to prevent the purl bumps from the MC/AC color showing on the outside of the hat. But you need to do a rib–even on the all MC row to prevent the hat brim from curling.

Rows 2 through 44 (or until piece measures 6.5 inches): holding MC yarn in back, K2 with AC, place AC yarn in back and P2 with MC. Repeat these K2P2 in alternating colors until you reach the marker and SM.

Row 45: K2, P2, K2 in color. P2Tog. Repeat until you reach the marker and SM

Switch to size 5 double point needles on next round.

Rows 46-47: follow color pattern, Knitting the AC knits and purling the MCs purls.

Row 48: in color pattern, K2, P2Tog twice, K2P1. Repeat until you reach the marker and SM

Rows 49 and 50: K2P1 in color pattern

Row 51: K2tog P2, K2P1 twice in color pattern. Repeat until you reach the end and SM

Row 52 and 53: follow color pattern

Row 54: K1P1, K2Tog, P1, K2tog, P1. Repeat until you reach the end and SM

Rows 55 and 56: K1P1 in color pattern (50 stitches)

Switch to size 4 double point needles on next round.

Row 57: K1, P1, P2tog (with MC). Repeat until to end.

Row 58: K1P2 to end

Row 59: K1P2Tog to end

Switch to size 3 double point needles on next round.

Row 60: K1P1 to end

Cut yarn with approx. 18” of each color remaining.

Run the MC yarn through all of the stitches and pull tight and secure. Feed through the center of the hat crown (to the outside).

Finishing: using a medium crochet create a 10-stitch chain and pull the yarn through to secure. Clip 5 four-inch pieces of each color pulling them through the last stitch in the chain. Wrap an additional main color around these pieces to create a tassel and trim to desired length. Weave in ends.